Fly fishing adventure at Apoteri

By Dr. George Marzluf

A long-time fishing friend, Hal Fisher and I arrived October 22nd at Georgetown, Guyana and were greeted by Peter Gorinsky, who had organized the Fly Fishing Expedition to Apoteri, a lodge originally built by the British nearly a century ago. Hal is 88 years old, loves fly fishing, and caught more than his share of fish on the trip.

Three other anglers joined us for a group of five guests plus Peter who also would be fishing. After overnighting in Georgetown and an early flight to Apoteri, we were treated with a sumptuous breakfast and soon had our tackle assembled and on our way to a lake that led from one of the main rivers. We immediately caught fish.

This was followed by four more full days of fly fishing. Fishing for peacock bass, or Lukanani, was outstanding with an abundance of peacocks in the 3 to 5 pound range, with the possibility of hooking larger ones. These fish hit streamers and poppers, jumped and fought very well, but their sheer numbers was what was most amazing.

Several times our group hiked to an inland lake where boats awaited us and were rewarded by continuous action with large numbers of peacock bass and also several species of piranhas, especially, the black piranha, large, aggressive, with a mouthful of razor sharp teeth. Each boat had two guides and accommodated two anglers. The guides understood English and quickly responded to any suggestions such as moving closer to shore or to a new spot.

Fishing in the rapids of the large rivers was also exciting and provided opportunities to hook other exotic species, such as Arawana and Payara, large fish which jump with authority. Several of these impressive fish were landed. I also hooked a large pike-like fish, locally called a swordfish, which ran strongly and jumped twice before throwing the fly.

Peter Gorinsky is an accomplished fly fisher and provided everyone with guidance as far as the flies that were most effective at the time, how to entice Arawana to inhale a popper or to fish deep in the rapids with a huge white streamer to attract Payara. Peter also has had many amazing experiences in his lifetime and while demonstrating fly tying in the evenings he would entertain us with interesting tales.

Meals at the lodge were excellent with many interesting local offerings. The staff was friendly and helpful and always greeted us with cold drinks and appetizers, followed later by dinner. The lodge itself is very basic but comfortable. One of the rewarding sidelines was the abundance of wildlife.

I enjoyed seeing a number of tropical birds, squirrel monkeys, a herd of peccaries, several otters, several large caiman, bats, and even a huge tarantula. Another interesting and enjoyable sideline was a visit to the nearby Indian village. The people were friendly and welcomed us in the nicest way.

Finally as we headed back to civilization Peter had arranged for us to visit Kaieteur Fall, a beautiful waterfalls and the highest in the world, and this was a special time that will long be treasured. While at the falls we saw a relatively rare brilliantly colored bird, known as the Cock of the Rock and lovely golden-colored miniature frogs that live only in a certain luscious plant. An hour later we were in Georgetown and had dinner together and then an early morning flight back to the U.S. All in all, a great adventure.